SABOR: Chef Michelle Bernstein Masters Art of Pop-up Resturant, Soulful Latin-Style Menus
Chef Michelle Bernstein, the Miami native and Latin-Jewish master of cuisine, has always been interested in food. A fan of layered, flavored, minimalism and remarkable ingredients, Bernstein creates soulful Latin-style menus.
Born to an Argentine-Jewish mother and a father with Italian-Jewish roots, the cook had early exposure to incredible food. Her mother, an amazing home cook, sparked her passion for tasting and eating, and her desire to cook rose organically from that.
"I would actually wake up in the mornings to the smell of mom's cooking. She would prepare dinner before heading to work," chef Bernstein told Latin Post.
"My favorite smell was that of her braised chicken thighs with peppers and spices over creamy parmesan gnocchi. Talk about a smile on my face when I would just open my eyes! I would always ask if I could have dinner for breakfast, but only once-in-a-while she'd allow that. Her kitchen wasn't big, but it fit a small table, where most meals and family members were served. That's the room I remember most about the house I grew up in. Her tools were her hands. They're soft, strong and beautiful. My mother is the reason I am a chef today."
With husband and business partner David Martinez, the chef owns and operates MBC Michelle Bernstein Catering Company, a full-service catering company, as well as the popular café concept, Crumb on Parchment. In 2011, chef Bernstein oversaw the distinguished establishment Azul at the Mandarin Oriental, before opening the landmark restaurant Michy's in Miami. Since opening, the restaurant has been rebranded as CENA, and the menu includes a number of soul-pleasing dishes inspired by her current food obsessions.
Olive oil, fennel, and the bitterness from chocolate and zests remain long time favorites, but roots and licorice are ingredients that make a frequent appearance in her dishes. Also, her favorite food city, Mexico City, is an inspiration for some dishes.
"I love all parts of the food and restaurant business: cooking, creating, writing, designing," Bernstein said. "It's all essential, and I am really lucky to be able to touch so many aspects of food. From airplanes to hospitals to restaurants to people's homes, it's crazy and so awesome."
In addition to her restaurants, chef Bernstein consults for Nespresso, Delta Airlines and Ruinart, and she partners with Memorial Cancer Institute (MCI), where she provides oncology patients with delicious, wholesome meal alternatives to comfort them during their treatment. She's also a member of Macy's Culinary Council, Lexus Culinary Masters and IMUSA's panel of chef ambassadors. Additionally, Michelle overseas food and beverage at Thompson Miami Beach Hotel, including the chic, retro eatery Seagrape.
Despite her many achievements, Bernstein admitted one of her proudest moment as a chef was when her mother visited the first restaurant where Bernstein was an executive chef, Red Fish Grill in Coral Gables. The restaurateur confessed she cried over the fish she served her mother.
Chef Bernstein iterated the importance of staying humble as a professional chef. According to her, "You have to treat everyone differently and speak to everyone personally. The business is always changing and you have to evolve."
The active cook has a number of thrilling projects lined up, so many she "can't event look up until they are all working perfectly." She's especially excited about her "pop ups" at the Miami Beach Botanical Garden during Art Basel Miami Beach, taking place Thursday, Dec. 3 through Sunday, Dec. 6. She plans to give life to The Garden Café during the day and love to CENA at night. Throughout the event, she'll create signature dishes with a South Floridian touch, using recently harvested ingredients.
Cena Beet Sorghum Risotto
2 cups cooked sorghum grain, prepared according to package directions
1 Tbsp. olive oil
½ tsp. fennel seeds
½ fresh fennel, chopped
4 cups beet juice
2 Tbsp. butter
2 large roasted beets, peeled, grated on a large hole box grater
2 Tbsp. fresh dill, roughly chopped
¼ lemon wedge
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sour cream
1 Tbsp. prepared horseradish
1 piece fresh horseradish
Heat the oil in a saucepan; add the fennel seeds and fennel, stirring over low heat until fragrant. Add the beet juice and reduce by half. Strain.
Place the strained beet juice in a sauté pan, add the grain, stirring until almost completely absorbed. Spoon in the butter and beets. Season and fold in the fresh dill, squeeze in the lemon and season to taste.
In a small bowl, combine the sour cream and prepared horseradish, season with salt. Top the risotto with the sour cream.
Using a microplane rasp grater, grate the horseradish over the whole dish and garnish with fresh picked dill.
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Braised Chicken Thighs with Pizza Spices
(Serves 4)
8 chicken thighs
1 cup flour
kosher salt and black pepper
½ cup olive oil
1 cup Spanish onion, minced
1 cup red bell pepper, seeded, minced
1 shallot, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup of your favorite tomato sauce
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 ½ teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano
4 whole pepperoncini from a jar, drained of brine
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Heat the oil in a wide, deep, heavy-bottomed braising pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper and dredge them in the flour, shaking off any excess. Add the thighs to the pan, skin-side down, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Turn the thighs over and cook until golden on the other side, about 5 minutes. Transfer the thighs to a large plate, and set aside.
Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the onions, peppers, and shallot, and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned 3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine and cook until the liquid has been reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper flakes, parsley, and oregano, and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
Return the chicken to the pan, skin-side up, and spoon the sauce over it. Add the pepperoncini, and season with salt and black pepper. Cover the pan, transfer it to the oven at 375F and braise until the chicken is cooked through, 35 to 40 minutes, check the chicken thighs halfway through cooking, if the liquid is not at least ½ way up the thighs, add about ½ cup of water or chicken stock to the pan.