Kojic Acid: Is It Safe to Be Used for Skincare?

By M.G. Alison. Sep 28 2020, 02:07 AM EDT

Kojic Acid has emerged as an effective solution to skin problems such as sun damage, scars, and age spots, but the question that is begging to be asked is that it is safe for the skin.

Apparently, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, kojic acid is safe to use in cosmetics in concentrations of one percent. Its main use is for the topical treatment of several different cosmetic conditions.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration, though, has cautioned that in buying products that have the acid, make sure to buy from reputable companies.

Kojic acid is a natural metabolite produced by fungi. It can also be created when brewing sake, the popular Japanese alcoholic beverage, from fermented rice.

The reason why kojic acid is marketed as an answer to people who have struggled with sun damage, scars, and age spots because it can inhibit tyrosinase activity in the synthesis of melanin.

Melanin is the pigment that affects hair, skin, and eye color. And when melanin is inhibited, it results in a lightening effect. Much of the concern surrounding kojic acid is if it can cause cancer.

Some of the studies have linked it to tumor growth in high concentrations. However, with the slow absorption of kojic acid into the skin, it is unlikely to reach high levels enough to cause cancer in humans.

In fact, studies show that kojic acid functions as an antioxidant in cosmetic products. It is still even safe enough to be used for humans at two percent concentration in leave-on cosmetics.

However, it is not advisable to use kojic acid to lighten a person's natural complexion because its main function is to lighten discoloration that was not originally on the person's skin, such as age spots, sun spots, and even marks left by skin breakouts.

Side effects and risks

But just like everything else that's good, there will always be side effects, especially for those who have highly sensitive skin.

The most common of these side effects is contact dermatitis, which manifests as redness, irritation, itchiness, rashes, swollen skin, pain, and discomfort.

Should this happen, it can either be that a person has super sensitive skin or the product being used is infused with a higher concentration of kojic acid. It is also best to immediately discontinue using the product and consult with a dermatologist.

It is even best for persons with sensitive skin to first consult with the dermatologist before using any product infused with kojic acid.

Regular and long-term use of products with kojic acid may result in the skin becoming susceptible to sunburns, which means the sunscreen will be a must or protective clothing. Products with kojic acid should also never be used on damaged or broken skin.

Kojic acid could be found in a number of different types of cosmetic products such as powders, serums, creams, cleansers, soaps, and even face masks. Just make sure to follow the instructions in using these products.