The Best Serve at the US Open
Mojito Restaurant & Bar, on the grounds of the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center, brings the talent of executive chef Eddie Romero each year for the duration of the US Open tournament. Latin Post spoke to chef Romero on the rise of stadium cuisine and satisfying the diverse palette of a US Open crowd.
Latin Post: The US Open is a great sporting event visited by people from around the world. Mojito is giving this audience a great experience when they are at the Open, so besides great tennis, they get to savor excellent food. What brought you here to Mojito and the US Open?
Eddie Romero: Well basically I am 23 years with the company (Levy Restaurants Group), and over the years, I have supported various sporting events. When I am not at the US Open, I am executive chef at the Toyota Center, home of the Houston Rockets. Ten years ago they asked me to come and enjoy the USTA team and the US Open, one of the biggest events we have at the company, and to run one of the restaurants, Mojito, which focuses on Latin flavors. I am a Latin and very proud. I was happy to participate, lead the restaurant, contribute my knowledge and provide the Latin flavors to the people that come to see a great sports venue.
LP: You normally create the menu for Houston's Toyota Center, and here you are cooking for a New York crowd. Do you see differences in the palette of these regions' sports fans?
ER: Of course. The people that come to the US Open are coming from all over the world. Besides, the restaurant offers a different menu than what I offer on a regular basis. As executive chef of the Houston Rockets Toyota Center, I oversee the whole food operation, the concessions, the restaurants and the suites. Mojito is a little different, since it is something we do special just for New York. One of the biggest questions my staff and I get asked all the time is if there is a Mojito restaurant in New York City or anywhere else. We only have Mojito at the US Open, only for the two weeks of the tournament.
LP: As a child -- and maybe this is dating me -- but I remember going to sporting events and just having peanuts, hotdogs and Cracker Jacks as food options. Why has this changed so drastically? Now the menu is so diverse and sophisticated.
ER: It has changed a lot, I would say, in the last 20 years. Like I said, I started with the company 23 years ago, and back then it was different. But Levy Restaurants started this new type of cuisine at these sport venues. Being the leader in this industry gives us a bit of a challenge to consistently meet and exceed expectations.
LP: I have seen the rise of popularity of the stadium executive chef. Chefs like you, Michael Mina and others are raising the level of this type of cuisine available to sports fans. With the already high cost of tickets, do you think the average fan is being priced out by these high-end, more expensive food offerings?
ER: The food that we offer at these sport venues is of the highest quality, and the price is money well spent. You are indulging in five-star quality food. Levy Restaurants is doing a great job at finding vendors around New York, so every product we use while we are here, we try to get locally.
LP: We have had record temperatures. It has been the hottest Us Open I can remember, with consecutive days of over 90 degree heat. Does this influence how you select your menu?
ER: Of course. In Houston, where it is hotter than in New York City, we are always thinking about how we can refresh our customers. The menu that we have at Mojito offers a light menu for fans; we have the mojitos and a gazpacho, which is a cold soup, plus a few appetizers that are refreshing for the fans that are walking the grounds at the Open.
LP: The restaurant is called Mojito and there is no better drink than the mojito. I know you serve a couple of types. Is there a favorite of the US Open crowd?
ER: A lot of people come in for the traditional mojito, but we are trying to come up every year with a different flavor. One of the new flavors that we have this year is the pineapple ginger mojito, which is outstanding.
LP: Every day, the push for healthier eating produces a new diet: gluten-free, etc. But with Latin cuisine we love our butter and "gracita." How do you tackle this to provide a healthier alternative?
ER: In some ways, you can balance this without damaging the overall flavor profile by cutting back on some of the oils we use. I have a lighter "ropa vieja" with braised beef, and I have cut back on using bacon fat in our traditional black beans so the calorie count is lower than grandma's recipe.
LP: Tell us about your love of cooking. You have this appreciation of good food and cooking good food. When was that seed planted in you?
ER: I think it was because of my father. He owned a bakery, and when I was very young, I started getting my hands into this. For me it became natural to start in the business. He had two outlets that served doughnuts and milkshakes. I started making doughnuts with my dad at 6 years old! For me it was natural.
When I came to the United States 25 years ago, I started working in restaurants, and it felt natural adapting to the cuisine and working in these very large kitchens. For me it was easy and natural to fit in because of my dad's profession.
LP: Did you have a favorite food when you were growing up that has remained a favorite as an adult?
ER: Yes. My mom would make mole for my birthday and special occasions, so definitely mole is one of my favorite dishes. I love working with Latin flavors, but I really enjoy Asian cuisine as well. I do a lot of Asian cuisine and Latin. My dad was a big part of my love of Mexican flavors. I am originally from Durango, Mexico.
LP: When you are not cooking, what are some of your other passions?
ER: Another passion is being with my family. I love music -- all kinds of music. When I am off, I like getting friends and family together, having a good time, getting some great music. And then the food, of course. We have to eat!
LP: If someone asked if you had to have one last meal before the next life, what would be that meal?
ER: It would have to be two meals. Definitely mole and soup dumplings. I discovered those when I first visited New York, and after that it became the second reason to come to New York besides the Open.
LP: With all the flavors you create, is it possible to choose two condiments you can't live without?
ER: Cilantro and chiles.
LP: What is the strangest ingredient you have cooked with?
ER: I would say, a long time ago, I was working with one of my chefs and preparing tamales. We were asked for a game to provide tamales, and people had to guess the protein used. It was rattlesnake.
LP: You have cooked for celebrities and sports stars. Is there anyone left you would like to cook for?
ER: Yes. I have been lucky to have cooked for some of the greatest players here and in Houston. But for me it is quite satisfying to have the average person walk in through the door, and at the end be happy and say, "Thank you. I had a great meal."
LP: You must come across young chefs and act as a mentor to many. What advice can you give someone entering this business?
ER: I think my biggest advice is to learn to be patient. It will all come together. I think sometimes young students coming straight out of culinary school want to have a chef job right away. It is not easy to be in this business. It takes a lot of time to learn and master your cooking style. This will help you coach and manage your team. It takes time to get to that comfort level.
LP: You inspired me, chef, to go back to the kitchen and be more creative. Any advice for the amateur cook?
ER: I think being in the kitchen means keeping it simple and not making it too complicated. A lot of people have the wrong idea. They think that they need to spend many hours in the kitchen to prepare a great meal.
When you have family and friends in the house, you should be with them and enjoy your guests. So remember that it doesn't need to be complicated to taste good. Keep it simple.
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